Altos de Lircay

6:45 am Today I will climb a volcano and scale a canyon.

9:45 pm Yup, done that! I just got back from a 13-hour hike during which I hiked above the most beautiful valley, climbed up to a top of a volcano with views changing every 27 seconds, and took a nap on a boulder over a cliff overlooking a garland of Andian peaks and volcanoes. That morning, one of the volcanos in sight – Nevados de Chillán – erupted and in the clear day, the ash and smoke spewing into the air were well visible.

I eventually managed to unglue myself from the stunning view and the volcanic eruption, and I pushed on. Over a steppe mesa, through several snow patches, up some volcanic rocks, then steep down and I arrived at a high-mountain lake formed of melted ice streams. I took a quick dip, froze, jumped out… I then had some cute boy take a splinter out of my foot. He had hiked with a needle and a thread. I had not.

The snow-melt streams are super delicious to drink. I refilled my waterbottle and headed back.

Hiking in sandals is fine when you’re going up. But when you are descending, their complete lack of support kills your knees… Ouch!

Finally out of the park and driving well after sunset, I stopped by every private house that displayed a sign advertising food sales. I got cheese in one place, tomatoes in another, pasta and bread in the third… I still had some curry rice from the previous day so it was a fun if mega-carby concoction. That said, I would have eaten a table, I was that hungry. My light-weight (read: arrogant/lazy) hiking does not include boots or food or needles. Only a bottle of water.

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